Balochistan

History of Balochistan

Balochistan is the largest province of Pakistan, which makes 44% of the country's land mass. It traces its history from times immemorial when it was inhabited by Stone Age hunters. According to French Archaeologist Professor Jarrige, by 6,000 BC farmers on the Bolan River were cultivating barley, wheat and dates using floodwater and storing their surplus in large mud bins. The people here were growing cotton and making pottery.

Before the birth of Christ, it had commerce and trade links with ancient civilization of Babylon through Iran and into the valleys of Tigris and Euphrates. Alexander the Great (326 BC) had an encounter with the Sibia tribe of Balochistan. Muhammad Bin Qasim (711 AD) and Mehmood Ghaznavi (11th century AD) also invaded Balochistan resulting in the development of Muslim character. Even today most tribal people of this province resemble Arabs and the inhabitants can be quite a fascinating subject of study by anthropologists.

During 15th century, the Great Baloch Sardar Mir Chakkar Rind united the main Balochi tribes and also ruled over southern Afghanistan and parts of Punjab and Sindh. After this, Balochistan was governed by Safvids, Mughals and Ghilzais for three centuries. The Khans of Kalat united the Brahui tribes and rose to power with support of Nadir Shah of Iran. The British first came to Balochistan during the first Afghan War (1939-42), on their way to Kandhar. In 1876, Robert Sandeman was appointed as the British Agent in Balochistan and by 1887 most of the area was in British hands. Ultimately, in 1947, Balochistan became part of Pakistan.

Pishin Valley And Bund Khushdil Khan

pishin Valley

Urak Valley
The Urak Valley is 21 kms from Quetta City. The road is lined on either side with wild roses and fruit orchards, peaches, plums, apricots and apples of many varieties are grown in this valley.

Hanna Lake
A little short of the place where the Urak Valley begins and 10 kms from Quetta, is the Hanna Lake, where benches and pavilions on terraces have been provided. Golden fish in the lake comes swimming right upto the edge of the lake. A little distance away, the waters of the lake take on a greenish blue tint. Right where the water ends, pine trees have been planted on the grass filled slopes.

The greenish-blue waters of the lake provide a rich contrast to the sandy brown of the hills in the background. One can promenade on the terraces. Wagon service to the lake operates from city bus station at Circular Road.

General Information
Area (Balochistan): 347,056 sq.km.
Population of Balochistan: 6,511,358 (1998 census)
Population (Quetta city): 560,307 (1998 census)
Average Elevation: 1676 metres (5,500 ft)

Tourist Information
For further information, local assistance and sightseeing tours, please contact any of the following Tourist Information Centres located in Balochistan:

(i) PTDC Tourist Information Centre, Muslim Hotel, Jinnah Road, Quetta.Tel: (081) 825826
(ii) PTDC Motel, Ziarat. Tel: (0833) 410356, 410331 Fax: 410320
(iii) PTDC Motel, Pak Iran Border, Taftan Tel: (0886) 510248 Fax: (0886) 510302

Ziarat:

A visit to Quetta is incomplete without a trip to Ziarat. Situated 133 kms (3 hours by car) from Quetta at an altitude of 2449 metres above sea level, Ziarat is a holiday resort amidst one of the largest and oldest Juniper forests in the world. It is said that some of the Juniper trees are as old as 5000 years.The name Ziarat means, "Shrine". A local saint, Kharwari Baba, is believed to have rested in the valley and blessed it. After his death he was buried here. People frequently visit the saint's shrine, which is 10 kms from Ziarat.

Extensive research is being made in the forest nurseries to replace the forest with other fast growing trees as the regeneration of the juniper is very slow. But that is also persured with great care.

Tourist season: All the year round, particularly from May to October.

Climate and Clothing
Ziarat is a hill station in the Sibi district of the province of Baluchistan. It remains quite cool during summer and receives enough snowfall during the winter. Light woolen clothing for summer and heavy for the winter are recommended.

People
The inhabitants are mainly Muslim. There are Pathans, Baluchis and Brahuis. Nomadic tribesmen also pass through the valleys around during spring and autumn with their families, herd of sleep and camels.

Languages
Pushto, Persian, Baluchi and Brahui are the local languages. Urdu and English are also spoken.

Costumes
The women wear shalwar (baggy trouser) and long skirted shirts with a chadar ao Dopatta having embroidered and mirror work. The men wear shalwar, long shirts and waist coat with a turban on the head.

Accommodation
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation has a Motel Complex with 18 comfortable rooms and cottages. Accommodation can be booked from the PTDC Offices in Quetta, Karachi and Islamabad. There are other comparatively inexpensive hotels in the town's centre.

Forest And Orchards
Extensive research is being done in the forest nurseries to replace the juniper forest with fast growing trees, as the regeneration of the juniper is very slow.

The magic of Ziarat is its honey, its flowers which attain large size here, its lush green grass and cool weather even in the hottest months of summer, "Shinshoab", a lavender like wild bush looks lovely in twilights. Over 4400 acres in an around Ziarat are under apple orchards. The apple grown in the orchards, particularly the black and red kulu variety are delicious. A fair amount of black cherry is also grown in Ziarat. The cherry season lasts from the 1st to 15th of June.

What to do?

Ziarat and the juniper valleys around offer good opportunity hiking and trekking. Various gorges also offer adventure and fun during the summer. It is also becoming popular for a taste of snow fall during the winter. Besides, the town itself offers hiking and trekking opportunities.

Chashma Walk
Between the ever-ascending hills and the deep ravine, there is a mile-long stretch of flat land ideal for a peaceful walk. This is the "Chashma Walk" which leads to the spring or a “Chashma" that provide water for the town. It is only 2 kms from the PTDC Motel Complex.

Prospect Point
The view from Prospect Point is rewarding. It lies at a height of 2713 metres above sea level and is 6 kms from Ziarat. The road is metalled, but a walk is recommended. Once at the peak with wind whistling through the forest one can see the valley stretch out in undulating slopes in front. From a nearby cliff, one can clearly see the highest peak of these hills known as Khalefat, which rises to a height of 3487 metres. There is a small rest house situated nearby. Advance booking can be made through the office of Deputy Commissioner of Ziarat.

Shrine Of Baba Kharwari
The shrine of Baba Kharwari is 8 kms from Ziarat town. A member of Sarang Zai, his real name was Tahir. He became a disciple of Nana Sahib and a number of miracles are attributed to him. He is buried in a valley about 8 kms from Ziarat. A large number of people visit his shrine and offer sacrifices in his memory. During Eid festival, the tribesmen gather around the shrine and hold wrestling and marksmanship competitions.

Zindra
Fourteen kms from Ziarat is the picturesque Zindra. Zindra derives its name from the Pushto word "Zindra" meaning "four grinding mills". Zizree (16 kms) and Nauna Dam (20 kms) are also interesting places for an outing near Ziarat.

Quaid-E-Azam Residency
Quaid-e-Azam Residency with its lush green lawns, Chinar trees and flower gardens commands a striking view of the whole valley. It is of historical importance, as the Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the Founder of Pakistan, stayed there during his last illness. It houses the relics of the Father of the Nation. The Residency was built in 1882 by the British and used by the Agent to the Governor General as his summer headquarters.

The Gorges
Balochistan is an arid land, which receives very low rainfall annually. But innumerable natural springs known as "Karez" and streams are found in most of areas. There are more than half a dozen gorges around Ziarat formed by natural "Karez" spring water falling through narrow opening amongst the mountain rocks producing a dramatic effect. The sound of waterfalls singing to the tune of solid rocks while passing through narrow gorges creates a mystic atmosphere. The famous gorges along the road to Ziarat are Chutair Tangi, Khan Tangi, Kawas Tangi, Fern Tangi and the Sandeman Tangi.

Fern Tangi
It lies 10 kms from Ziarat, off the main road to Quetta. A small waterfall formed by the mountain spring flows down. It is a 2 kms walk from the main road to the waterfall and is an ideal place for picnic.

Sandeman Tangi
It is just 4 kms from Ziarat. It is a dramatic waterfall cascading down the rocks and provides fun to the visitors.
Chutair Valley/Tangi After 13 kms from Ziarat on way to Loralai is the beautiful Chutair valley. It is a 30 minutes drive to Chutair from Ziarat. There are green picnic spots in the valley. There is also a rest house in case one wants to stay longer. The crude and rustic huts made with the bark of juniper trees in which the inhabitants of the area live, are strikingly different from dwellings in other villages. Nearby is Chutair Tangi which is worth visiting.

Ziarat

Mehrgarh

Neolithic Mehrgarh is a 9,000 years old site of settlement of Katchi district at the foot of Bolan Pass near Sibi. Supported by Pakistan's Department of Archaeology, French archaeologists are carrying out extensive excavations here for some years. The excavations, studies and research have led to pushing back these settlements to some 9,000 years. Thus the chronology of civilization in Pakistan established through the study of Meonjodaro and Harappa has been pushed back by over 4,000 years.

Research shows that the people here had lived in houses and were involved in hunting, domestication of animals and farming cereals like barley and wheat and later cotton too. This hunting-farming society developed gradually and their pursuits were creative. During the early period these people used stone and bone tools i.e. polished stone-axes, flint blades and bone-pointers. By the 6,000 BC, the hand-made pottery appeared and in 5th millennium BC, metallurgy and potter-wheel were introduced and they produced some fine terra-cotta figurine and pottery with geometric designs.
Subsequently they produced and wore ornaments of beads, seashells and semi-precious stones like Lapis Lazuli. A museum has been set up at Sibi where a wide range of rare finds from the site of Mehrgarh is on display.

Mehrgarh

The Balochistan coastline

The Balochistan coastline extends over 750 kms. From Hub near Karachi to the Gwadar Bay on Pakistan-Iran border.The coastal tribes are as colourful as that of central and upper Balochistan. Their colourful costumes, songs and dances are equally fascinating. The whole area is rich with long unspoilt golden sunny beaches and a variety of sea fish. Because of the importance of this coast Pasni, Jiwani and Gwadar, the three important coastal towns, have been linked by air with Karachi and Quetta. Gaddani Beach near Karachi is an excellent seaside spot for picnic.